1. Giant Vac Leaf Blower Parts Diagram

Hey guys mine was doing the same.I removed bladed, got them sharpened and reinstalled them. I used a hack saw blade to gap them (I read that on here somewhere). I fired it up and said 'Do or Die' and fed a 6-7' log in it and it gobbled it up like nothing. When I removed my blades, they had a large gap of over an eighth of an inch and I had to push to get anything through it. Now it actually pulls it in.

I don't understand how it does it because there is no feeder on it. All I know is it works fine now. You guys have better luck than I do with the machine eating a piece of wood.

Giant Vac Leaf Blower Parts Diagram

I have mine adjusted like the picture posted, don't see how you can adjust the floor plate, pressure bar or cutter bar to make the machine eat six inch diameter wood. My 12' asplundh is powered by a four cylinder ford industrial and it eats two inch green wood, maybe two and a half. It doesn't like dry wood but will eat it with some persuasion. The dry wood is hard on knives.

I am not sure what the engine RPM's are 2200? Even a long bushy two inch piece will lug the engine down, so I cut them shorter. The branches are gone in seconds. I know what the machine will take and cut the branches accordingly. I heat with wood so I use anything larger than two inches, sometimes smaller for food for the boiler. So I have no desire to chip anything larger than two inches. Asplundh made a good chipper and will treat you well if you take care of it.

Set the engine RPM's to manufactures speck's. Keep your knives sharp and make sure they are all the same size. The drum has to be balanced. If the bearings in the chipper head get worn out they get hot, the heat goes into the shaft and crystallizes it, and then one day the shaft will break on you.When Mobark came out with the Eager beaver back in the early eighty's it was powered with roughly the same four cylinder ford industrial engine that I have. The Eager beaver would eat larger wood maybe six, eight inch diameter???? But it took awhile.

The eager Beaver was a smaller version of Mobarks whole tree chipper that would eat around eighteen inches or so, maybe larger. If they were straight. It took awhile though. Some of the big Mobark's of the early years sixty,s and seventy,s were powered by a large Detroit.I have a saw that I will post a picture of when I get a current picture.

That is what I use to make long pieces shorter so they fit in the boiler. I posted a picture of it on another site a couple of years ago and got beat up by the safety police. Still have scars from the beating.Good luck with your chipper. They are not that hard to replace. If the bearing got hot and the heat went into the shaft you might have a problem down the road. My machine is a 1960 or so version.

I would bet the drum has not changed,much if any. Part is common sense remove your knives, take off belt guard and sheve.

Other side take off flywheel guard and flywheel. Flywheel is a bear to get off. The taper lock that holds the flywheel to the shaft does not like to release the flywheel. And yes there are three threaded holes in the taper lock to put the bolts in you removed that were threaded into the flywheel. You thread them into the taper lock and put pressure against the flywheel. You can tighten them so tight that you will break the taper lock (ruin it) and still not release the flywheel.

I was told by an Asplundh service dealer to take a sledge hammer and hit the flywheel in the opposite direction that it comes off the taper lock. That did not make sense to me so I ran in the bolts and put pressure on the flywheel. I used two oxygen/acetylene torches with a #15 tip and heated up the flywheel. I would use a couple of propane rose buds today with the high cost of acetylene.

As the flywheel got hot I would increase the pressure on the three bolts until it came loose. Now you have the bearing caps on the side of the head. Remove bolts and thread bolts into the threaded holes to remove caps from chipper head.

Now comes the fun part. You are not going to get those bearings out without a cutting torch. Next you will need a sky hook.

If you don't have one of those a strong overhead beam that will support a thousand pounds or so will work. Do not know what that drum weighs but it is heavy. A cubic foot of steel weights 520 pounds.Put a strap or chain on the ends of the shaft and hook the chain in the center to a hoist that is connected to the overhead beam. Once the hoist is tightened up take the torch and cut the balls out of the bearings. Next be real careful and cut the inner races off the shaft, and the outer races out of the housing. The new bearings go on a lot better than they come off.

I did mine back in 94 or so and the bearings then cost $125.00 or so each.I may have left a few things out because it has been a long time since I changed the bearing in my machine.To chip larger wood you need to have the knives extend out of the drum farther. I can not find any measurement for that distance.

Chip bigger wood and it is harder on the machine. They made that new style chipper for a reason. My guess would be chipping large wood in this style machine was too hard on it.

General SpecificationsCapacity:13 in (330.2 mm)Standard Engine HP:87 HP (64.9 kw)Weight:5,580 lb (2531 kg)Transport Length:15.1 ft (4.6 m)Operational Length:17.4 ft (5.3 m)Width:6.6 ft (2 m)Height:8.3 ft (2.5 m)Infeed Chute Size:30 h X 42 w in (762 h X 1066.8 w mm)Nip Point Distance:87 in (2209.8 mm)Feed Roller Diameter:7.5 in (190.5 mm)Feed Motor Displacement:13.9 cu in (227.8 cu cm)Feed Rate:95 fpm (29 mpm)Fuel Tank Capacity:25 gal (94.6 L)Hydraulic Tank Capacity:12 gal (45.4 L).